Berlin’s Battle for the Best Kebab
In my country, the United Kingdom, the kebab is an inevitable end to a heavy night of partying. Greasy, heavy and often full of regret, this late-night fast-food is far from a delicacy. Contrastingly, in Berlin, the kebab holds a different status. I tried out two of the most highly rated gemüse kebab shops in Berlin to better understand this quintessential German cuisine.
This Turkish dish arrived in Germany in the 1960s, when thousands migrated from Turkey for work, bringing along their culture and, in this case, their cuisine. Since then, Berlin has become renowned for its kebabs, and this is far from the early morning grease we have back home. These ‘gemüse’ (translating to ‘vegetables’) shops serve healthy, fresh kebabs that are a dinner norm.
We made our way to Rüyam Gemüse Kebab, just a short walk from Mauerpark, where Lovro, a local friend, was taking us. Aside from being starving, I was excited to taste this kebab which Lovro claims to be the best in Berlin. As we turned the corner, my excitement dropped to find a long queue snaking down the street. While a queue signifies food worth waiting for, my rumbling stomach wasn’t much pleased.
After 30 minutes of dance-queuing to music booming out of their speakers, we finally made it inside. Snippets from newspapers hung along the walls praising the fast-food shop, reassuring me this long wait wouldn’t be for nothing. “Two gemüse kebabs please” to a response of “there’s a 30 minute wait for food”. Damn! Another 30 minutes…
Just over an hour after arriving at Rüyam Gemüse Kebab, my order number flashed on the screen causing me to jump out of my seat. Finally, I was about to try one of Berlin’s best kebabs.
I must say, Lovro was not lying. This kebab really is like none I’ve tasted in the UK. Each bite burst with flavour, creating an extraordinary experience for my tastebuds. Colourfully crisp salad, roasted sweet potato, perfectly juicy chicken doner all combined in a warm wrap, and oozing with garlic, chili and herb sauce. This was a delicacy.
The next day, after visiting Checkpoint Charlie, an outdoor street museum educating tourists on the Berlin wall and the Cold war, we found ourselves not far from Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebab. Named by National Geographic as one of Berlin’s must-visit street foods, we knew we had to try it. We hopped on our nextbikes (just three euros for day hire) and arrived at Mustafa’s. Why I was surprised to see another queue, I’m not sure.
Mustafa Gemüse Kebab is a inconspicuous streetside trailer located in Kreuzberg. I was surprised that this top-rated kebab shop lacked seating and atmosphere. However, it is often the case that the most aesthetically basic food vendors serve the best food, so this didn’t put me off.
We gladly joined the queue as it seemed to be moving quickly. During the wait, I scouted out a place to sit and eat our kebabs – a few nearby pavement benches would have to do. After around 15 minutes, we were at the front of the line. With the colossal lump of doner spinning above us, I wondered whether this was mouth-watering or kind of gross.
The worker handed me the gemüse kebab, a warm soft flatbread crammed with similar contents to Ruyam’s. Filled with crisp lettuce, roasted tomatoes, aubergine and succulent chicken, all topped with crumbled feta, this was yet another kebab worth waiting for.
While both Rüyam’s and Mustafa’s kebabs were equally delectable, if you only have time to visit one of these German-Turkish food vendors, I crown Rüyam the winner of the best kebab in Berlin.
Perhaps it was the hungry build-up of the hour-long wait, or the buzzing atmosphere outside – but with its accessible location and plenty of seating, a trip to Rüyam should not be missed. Of course, if you also want to experience National Geographic’s top choice, go to Mustafa’s for a round two, like I did.
